Lecture and Class Descriptions of Corsets & Cravats In Person Conference in Oxford, NC August 2-4.
Registration Opens April 26th!
Registration Opens April 26th!
Lectures
|
The History of Granville County, North Carolina from 1820 to 1870
Mark Pace OUMC Fellowship Hall Friday August 2 9:00 AM Join historian Mark Pace in an: exploration of the history and social customs of Granville County from the mid antebellum era (1820) to the early Reconstruction period (1870). Learn about the tremendous effect of the American Civil War on the economic and cultural fabric of the area as well as the rise of Oxford as a center of economic and academic achievement. Discuss the transition of Granville’s African-American population from slavery to emancipation as well as the area’s large Free Black populace. (Handicap accessible) |
|
The Significance of the Insignificant
Amie Clark OUMC Fellowship Hall Saturday August 3 9:00 AM This session will focus on the role of the person behind the profession. Participants will explore the importance of researching the individual person, their role in the family, the community, and ultimately the roles the individual plays in history itself. The workshop will look at roles and professions that are widely recorded in history books and learn ways to research further into the seemingly insignificant individual behind the recording. Participants will come away with a fresh perspective on their individual importance. They will see the value of the smaller, often overlooked, things in everyday research. Attendees will see how no one and nothing is too insignificant to make a significant difference. (Handicap accessible) |
|
The Business of Death in the 19th Century
Annette Jorgensen The Orpheum Sunday August 4 10 AM Death in the 19th century was a relatively common occurrence. Illnesses and accidents that we do not commonly see or that can be easily prevented in the 21st century could cause death during the Victorian era. Most who study history are familiar with the mourning customs of the 19th century, such as wearing black crepe. But who actually produced the items needed for caring for the dead? Many occupations such as grave diggers, coffin makers, embalmers, and tombstone carvers all made a living entirely or at least partially from death. Death could be big business for 19th century businesses. This presentation will discuss some of the mid-19th century occupations that contributed to the needs of the dead and their mourners. (Handicap accessible) |
|
Where are all the Black Folks? Inclusive and Integrated Historical Interpretation
Yulanda Burgess The Orpheum Sunday August 4 11:15 AM When one looks about at American Civil War era historical events, reenactments and living history events, the absence of African American participants is often noticeable. However, on the eve of the war, 14.1 percent of the United States population consisted of African Americans. How does one attempt to resolve this demographic issue? Yulanda Burgess will discuss omissions and challenges related to the ethnic composition of Civil War civilian groups. Suggestions will be presented for historical organizations and civilian groups to lay foundations for more inclusive public history that involves the interaction between European and African Americans in the mid-nineteenth century. She will highlight scenarios, material culture, research and retention needed to present a more accurate ethnic depiction of the mid-nineteenth century. (Handicap accessible) |
Short Breakout Sessions
|
Nearly New: Second Hand, Altered, and Restyled Clothing
Carolann Schmitt Carr Classroom Friday August 2 10:30 AM Do you buy or sell at yard sales? Shop at thrift or consignment shops? Donate to these shops? Contribute to religious or social groups that accumulate and ship clothing to disaster areas or third world countries? Have an interested in ‘upcycling’ or ‘green fashion’? If you do, you are continuing a trade that has been practiced for centuries and was both common and popular during the mid-nineteenth century. The altered and used clothing trade is centered in the individual home Every other aspect of the system works in some way to provide for the needs of the home. Clothing enters and exits the home, usually in some sort of trade, business transaction, public or private charity. In the home, garments may be remade or remodeled for style, size or function, assigned to another family member, or repurposed entirely. Existing garments how the skill and expertise used to make these alterations. When the garments cease to become useful, no longer useful clothing often left the home via charitable efforts, traveling near or far, as they were distributed by charitable and religious groups. The clothing also retained value to the cast-off markets, transforming into cash or credit for the seller. New trades and industries developed around the used clothing markets. Pack and peddling merchants found the used-clothing trade a steppingstone into the world of distribution and retail. The low entry threshold put this sort of business in reach of men and women from all walks of life, and from all ethnicities and genders, eventually moving into brick-and-mortar shops. Sideline trades benefited from the used clothing trades, providing status, legitimacy, and income for up-and-coming business owners, eventually becoming primary trades in many areas. And, as in all businesses and trades, a seamy side of that business world developed and became issues of social importance. Second-hand clothing trade, alterations, and re-styling provide a fascinating window into the lives of American citizens. They had a pronounced effect on individual households, neighborhoods, municipalities, regional, and national economic system, and continue to do so today. |
|
Stroked Gathers
Samantha Bullat E201 Friday August 2 10:30 AM An examination of mid-19th Century extant garments and sewing manuals reveals the prevalence of stroked gathers as the preferred method of gathering fabric into a waistband, neckband, or cuff. Stroked gathers create tidy, regular gathers with a distinct look not achievable by simply gathering the fabric and sandwiching it inside the band. Learn to master this important historical sewing construction technique in a hands-on class. Participants should bring a half yard of cotton fabric, thread, and basic sewing kit. (Upstairs) |
|
"The Work was Never Done." - Women in 19th Century Agriculture
K Krewer OUMC Fellowship Hall Friday August 2 10:30 AM In 1830, 90% of Americans lived on farms. Despite increasing urbanization, the majority of Americans still lived on farms throughout the entire 19th century. Yet “farmers” were generally considered to be male. Women on farms were largely invisible, their contributions taken for granted, even though farm women – including wives, daughters, and female workers, whether hired or enslaved -- had a multitude of tasks critical to the farm’s viability, and requiring varied skills. In addition to the running of a household and the care of children, food management and food preservation, women generally were responsible for care of poultry and small animals, the garden, and the dairy. They frequently helped with planting, cultivation, and harvesting as well. Little wonder, then, that an 1862 government document reported that “a farmer's wife, as general rule, is a laboring drudge… [o]n three farms out of four the wife works harder, endures more, than any other on the place…When the Civil War came, the absence of men gone to be soldiers further impacted the farm, as women took on the management of farms as well as farm labor typically done by men. Mary Livermore reported that during a trip through the Midwest, “Women were in the field everywhere…” This presentation will examine the day-to-day lives of “average” farm women in different areas of the country and on different types of farms; how they responded to war-time challenges; and what happened when the soldiers came home. Changes in the economy and technological changes will be discussed, as well. (Handicap accessible) |
|
Touring America as a Nineteenth Century Pilgrim – The Places Our Ancestors Visited
Mindy Gulden Crawford OUMC Chapel Friday August 2 10:30 AM As we contemplate what historic places to visit in the 21st century that convey life in the mid-19th century, we may be curious where our ancestors visited. This presentation will take the audience on a journey through the mid-19th century, exploring the unique travel experiences of our ancestors in America and why they often called themselves, “pilgrims”. We’ll talk about the shift from early, challenging journeys to the development of transportation options such as the National Road, steamboats, canals, and railroads, that paved the way for a new era of tourism. We’ll explore iconic 19th-century tourist attractions like Niagara Falls, Mammoth Cave, Yosemite, and Yellowstone, each offering a unique blend of danger, excitement, and natural beauty. During the industrial age, the developing technology created new opportunities for travel and exploration including Mauch Chunk's gravity railroad that provided an exciting and scenic experience for visitors. We’ll discover more about the curious trend of visiting newly constructed prisons, asylums, cemeteries, and parks, revealing the societal interests and values of the time. These travel experiences shaped the perception of landscapes, influenced art movements like the Hudson River School, and contributed to the early conservation efforts in places like Yosemite. This presentation will transport us back in time, offering a unique perspective on the places that our 19th- century ancestors explored with curiosity and awe. (Handicap accessible) |
|
Don’t Fear the Fabric
Maggie Koenig E203 Friday August 2 10:30 AM Kit Fee $8 Hands on class in economic cutting and piecing. Helping people conserve fabric and liberate themselves Of the worry of having enough. Topics will include playing with pattern piece layout, marking fabric for cutting, How to layout to account for plaids and patterns, deciding where to piece and other ways to conserve fabric. We will then spend time learning the easiest ways to match prints and piece in fabrics for both new construction and alterations of existing garments. (Upstairs) |
|
When Did They Start Selling That?
Bob Sullivan OUMC Fellowship Hall Saturday August 3 10:30 AM In my travels I am shown many labels and advertisements that are supposed to be from the Civil War. But are they? How can you find out just when a product was sold? Watch this presentation on mid-19th century culture and find out. Trying to further your living history impression? Want to create an authentic display of cans, bottles, and other everyday items? There are lots of sources on the internet that refer to “Civil War Period Labels”. There’s Pinterest, Facebook groups, Victorian era websites. In fact, there are lots of labels that have been passed among living history participants for years. Did you know that many of them are wrong? What tools are available to the modern researcher when attempting to date a product label? The internet poses solutions as well as problems. Many so-called sources are not that. What can a researcher trust? Listed here are five sources of information that are used in this presentation.
|
|
Learn to Love Buttonholes-Sold Out
Samantha Bullat E201 Saturday August 3 10:30 AM Kit Fee $5 Handsewn buttonholes are essential for creating coats, waistcoats, trousers, petticoat waistbands, undersleeve cuffs, and so much more. Learn tips for neat, tidy hand sewn buttonholes in this hands-on class that will take you step by step through the process. Participants will receive a kit with everything they need to practice and refine their buttonholes. (Upstairs) |
|
Two Worlds, One Goal: How the Museum and the Private Collector Can Learn From Each Other
Paige Myers OUMC Chapel Saturday August 3 10:00 AM “Two households both alike in dignity…” so begins Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet but let us change that a little to suit the field of costumes/textiles. Two occupations, both alike in dignity but quite different in interpretation. When we say this, what exactly do we mean? Museum collections and private collectors have always strived for the same goal, to educate the public about the history of textiles/costumes but have accomplished this in different ways. While the private collector shares their collection with the public in a hands-on way, museums have often kept their collections quietly locked away with only access for curators and scholars with a minimum of handling. Today, with information (and misinformation) so readily available from the internet and attention spans diminishing, how do these two institutions remain relevant and how can they learn from each other? This presentation seeks to help these two worlds understand each other in the form of definitions, materials, and practices. That is to say, museums have a lot to teach the private collector about the handling of their collection, materials to keep their collection safe, and appropriate methods of displaying objects for the public to view. Museums can learn from private collectors how their audience connects with the objects and what that audience wants to learn from them. Access and examination of textiles is important to scholarly research for both. Practical information such as resources for materials, informational handouts, and hands on demonstrations will support this presentation from the “museum” side of the world. It is hoped that at the conclusion of this paper that the “collector” side can better understand the basic practices used by museums and that both worlds will have a better understanding of each other to accomplish the mutual goal of education. (Handicap accessible) |
|
“Send to the Butcher for a Fresh Oxgall” – Laundry and Garment Cleaning in the 19th Century
K Krewer Carr Classroom Saturday August 3 10:30 AM How did Victorian people care for their clothing? How was laundry was done at home? How were different types of fibers (cotton, silk and wool) treated? Did different colors require different treatment? Were different kinds of stains were treated differently? Ladies' magazines frequently gave advice on cleaning clothing, and books on "domestic economy" devoted chapters noting "best practices" mentioning such bewildering terms as French chalk, fuller's earth, chloride of lime and oxgall. Aside from deciphering such instructions for home laundry, explore the development and use of washing machines, the prevalence of prevalence of laundresses, commercial laundries, and the infancy of the dry-cleaning industry. (Handicap accessible) |
|
Exploring the Profession of American Architects and Their Iconic Buildings (1830-1870)
Mindy Crawford E203 Saturday August 3 10:30 AM This presentation is designed for history and architecture enthusiasts who share a curiosity about the stories behind iconic buildings and the architects who brought them to life. The primary objective is to explore the evolution of the architectural profession, showcasing the visionary architects who shaped the built environment during a crucial time in American history. Additionally, it will highlight iconic buildings of the era, emphasizing their historical and cultural significance. It will include a brief overview of the socio-economic and cultural landscape in America between 1830 and 1870 including the growth of cities, industrialization and cultural movements influencing architecture of the time and the role of architects in urban planning, including the design of public buildings, parks, and landscapes. The occupation of architect evolved from “builder” to “professional” when the American Institute of Architects was formed in 1858. Architectural magazines, pattern books, and writings on architectural trends, the evolution of architectural education and training during the 19 th century, and the technological advancement in building materials marked this period as one of the most exciting times for new architectural styles. The architects that were working in this period were making advancements in design and construction techniques more quickly than any other period. This period also created new opportunities for women. While they were not yet professionally trained architects, many women were working in the offices of architects and by the late 19 th century, women were moving into the role of architect making notable contributions to the field. The presentation will feature images, architectural drawings, and period-specific illustrations to enhance engagement and provide a vivid understanding of the occupation of architects and their buildings. (Upstairs) |
Long Breakout Sessions
|
"Brace Yourself" -Constructing Embroidered Men's Braces
Jackie Jacobs E201 Saturday August 3 2:00 PM Kit Fee $65 Study various types of men’s braces via a short PowerPoint presentation. After which the class will get to construct a pair of embroidered braces. The embroidery is documented to the Civil War era and the braces will be constructed in a manner that the student will, hopefully, be able to get at least one completed. (Upstairs) |
|
Hairpiece Basics: Crinoline Hairstyles
Lana Lily OUMC Chapel Friday August 2 2:00 PM Learn the basics of using hairpieces. Learn how to match your hair color, where to buy and even how make your own. Discussion of historical techniques and styles of the 1850s and 60s and a demonstration of how to recreate historical styles when you have a modern haircut. (Handicap accessible) |
|
The Good, The Bad, and the Ugly
Heather Hook and Dannielle Perry E203 Friday August 2 2:00 PM $15 Kit fee Examine the Ugly Bonnet Shade of the mid 19th century and create your own. (Upstairs) |
|
Learning to Look, Looking to Learn: How To Do an Artifact Study
Paige Myers Carr Classroom Friday August 2 2:00 PM Kit Fee $10 Learning directly from extant garments and artifacts can be a rewarding avenue of research. But, how do we train our eyes and fingers to really see what the artifact is telling us? In this session, we’ll go through the process and practice seeing the big picture and fine details, while keeping artifacts intact and undamaged, and review important things to keep in mind when studying artifacts in private collections, archives, and museum collections. (Handicap accessible) |
|
Make Your Own Book
Bob Sullivan E201 Friday August 2 2:00 PM Kit Fee $15 This workshop will teach participants how to make a book from everyday materials. At the conclusion of the workshop, participants will have a completed, 36-sheet, hand-bound blank book. All materials are provided by the instructor. The instructor will teach the participants all the steps involved in creating a text block (the inside of a book) book from scratch. Students will then make their cover, and finally, attach the cover to the text block. (Upstairs) |
|
Getting a Grip on Gussets
Carolann Schmitt OUMC Fellowship Hall Friday August 2 2:00 PM $6 kit fee Dressmakers, mantua makers, milliners, sewing women, shirtmakers, seamstresses and seamsters, tailors and tailoresses: these are some of the occupations that utilize fabric and sewing skills to create garments for women, men, and children. The levels of skill and expertise utilized by these individuals varies with their occupation and experience. Some of the construction techniques they use may be specific to their occupation and the garments they create. Other techniques are more common and are used by each of them, including the technique that is the bane of many of those who make reproduction garments: the gusset! This workshop begins with an overview of gussets: their sizes, shapes, purposes, where and when they may or should be used, as part of a newly-constructed garment or an alteration. We will examine original women’s and men’s garments that have used gussets in their construction. Participants will then use period techniques as they learn how to cut, mark, and insert a gusset, including how to finish seam allowances. In addition to the historical information provided in the Conference book, participants will also receive an illustrated workbook with detailed instructions and fabric for their sample. Participants should bring white cotton sewing thread, size 50 or (preferably) size 60, hand-sewing needles no larger than a size 8, a thimble if you use one, fabric scissors, fabric marking pen or a lead pencil, and straight pins. Irons will be available for your use. Join us and get a grip on making gussets! (Handicap accessible) |
|
Pen Wipers in the Mid-19th Century
Annette Jorgenson E203 Saturday August 3 2:00PM Kit Fee $15 Pen wipers were a necessity for 19th century writers. The pen nibs dipped in ink could become “clogged” and would need to be cleaned often. Pen wipers could be plain, fancy, or fanciful and were often given as gifts. Instructions for pen wipers were included in ladies’ magazines for woman of leisure to occupy their time. In this workshop participants will construct a fanciful pen wiper. The workshop will include a short presentation to provide background. |
|
1850’s Deep V Front Bodice & Skirt from FA&M
Mackenzie Anderson Sholtz Carr Classroom Saturday August 3 2:00 PM Kit Fee $25 Workshop focused on making a first muslin of the bodice of the 1850s Deep V Front Bodice. Focus on fit and on period construction techniques and details. Pattern-in-Progress graded pattern and sewing instructions will be part of the workshop. Attendees will need to bring their 1840s-1850s style corsets. Prior to workshop, more information on materials to be purchased will be given. (Handicap accessible) |
|
Pulling Threads: Making Fringe and Tassels to Complement your Garments-Sold Out
Carolann Schmitt OUMC Fellowship hall Saturday August 3 2:00 pm Kit Fee $11 Manufacturers, distributors, wholesalers and retailers in the 1850s and early 1860s often produced and sold dress fabrics as a ‘dress pattern’ or a ‘dress package’. This ‘pattern’ or ‘package’ included an illustration of the finished garment, a pre-cut length of fabric, and trimmings woven or produced to match or complement the fabric. There was no option to purchase extra yardage; the maker was expected to make a garment to fit the wearer using what was included in the package. Today it is very difficult to find quality silk or wool fringe or tassels for reproduction garments, and almost impossible to find them in colors that match your fabric. All is not lost! It is surprisingly easy and affordable to make your own. We’ll begin by looking at original examples of garments with trimmings specifically woven to match the fabric. We’ll discuss styles, scale, the advantages and pitfalls of the home décor department, and how the garment fabric and/or complementary fabrics can be used to create custom trimmings. We’ll learn how to make and attach fringe, how to create striped and multi-colored fringe, and how to turn the fringe into tassels. Appropriate styles for custom-made buttons and where to find them will be discussed. In addition to the historical information provided in the Conference book, participants will also receive an illustrated workbook with detailed instructions, fabrics for their samples, and matching threads. Participants should bring hand-sewing needles no larger than a size 8, a thimble if you use one, fabric scissors, fabric marking pen or chalk, straight pins, a seam ripper or awl, a quilter’s ruler, a rotary cutter (if you have one). Cutting mats, additional rotary cutters, soft brushes, and irons will be available for your use. (Handicap accessible) |
|
Hairpiece Basics: Bustle Hairstyles
Lana Lily OUMC Chapel Saturday August 3 2:00 PM Learn the basics of using hairpieces. Learn how to match your hair color, where to buy and even how make your own. Discussion of historical techniques and styles of the 1870s and 80s and a demonstration of how to recreate historical styles when you have a modern haircut. (Handicap accessible) |